It is guaranteed by the European Union as being produced in a well defined geographical area and containing less than 1% acidity. It is extremely low in cholesterol and full of vitamin E. The final product is classed according to acidity and purity.

Nevertheless, the procedure to gain the certification can be long and laborious and it is possible to find superb olive oil without the distinctive logo. But ask around as the techniques of producing olive oil have changed a lot in recent times although the industry remains dominated by small family owned firms, a curious mixture of traditional and hi-tech.

As for the best DOP olive oil in Italy it really depends on personal taste. The olives used and the local growing conditions mean subtly different flavours.

Ligurians, Umbrians, Tuscans and others will always claim their oil is the best and we know a little producer in Basilicata who reckons his is the finest in Italy, offical.

The Frantoi Boeri at Taggia in Liguria produces a series of cosmetic products produced from olive oil. Nutrient cream, oil for massages, aftershave and even sun tan lotion tell us that the olive has adapted once again to meet new demands.

We may not be rubbing our bodies with olive oil on the beach just yet, but such products and the continuing popularity of the Mediterranean diet means we should find out as much as we can about the humble olive.