They are often eaten fresh usually fried with a light covering of egg, parmesan cheese, garlic and herbs. Yet many in the region still prefer to purchase their anchovies dried and salted or alternatively under oil 'sott 'olio'.

2 grams or 'etti' make a delicious antipasti with a local white wine and are so good you wonder why you bothered to make a hot dish afterwards.

Keeping the fish under oil post dates the salted version by a number of centuries.

The salted fish were the preferred way of preserving the food for leaner times as well as high value barter item with the rich nobles from the Padana plain.

Salt was a valuable commodity in medieval times, especially that made at Hyeres near Nice. It would be transported by mule caravan through the Alpine passes and onto Lombardia and Veneto and the rest of Italy.

Control of the trade was fierce. Deals were made between whoever was in control of the valleys to ensure no one particular route dominated. Even so, ingenious methods were used to escape both the commercial and fiscal interest of others.

One was the trade of 'arbanelle di acciughe'. The anchovies were salted and eaten. Once the traders had arrived at their destination so did the salt, tax free. At Canelli, Asti, the 'cult of anchovies' remains and is still celebrated every year.

Read about the piemontese dish bagna cauda with anchovies