The immediate Riviera dei Fiori coastline is spectacular. The mountains really do meet the sea and they are lined with rows and rows of covered greenhouses, inside which the famous Sanremo flower crop is grown.

The fertile soils do, however, produce some wonderful fruits and vegetables. The famous and hardy taggiasca olive is grown from sea level up to an altitude of 1000 meters while the 'trombetta' courgettes live up to their name and can reach over a meter in length. They are especially tasty when fried with butter.

Those visitors looking to eat well in the center of Sanremo may also want to try the 'farinata' or chick pea omelette and the 'sardeneira', a lovely light tomato based pizza bread. Do head to the Cantine San Remese for the best of 'Antichi Sapori di Liguria, via Palazzo, 7.

Fish lovers should seek out the collection of restaurants near the old port or 'Porto Vecchio'.

Heading down the hill from the Ariston Theater they can be found lining Piazza Bresca. The only recommendation is to make sure your fish is fresh and not to miss out on the local prawns.

Market day in Sanremo is Tuesday and Saturday and takes place around the streets near the old watch tower 'Torre della Ciapèla' not far from Piazza San Siro. The market is so good that you will hear as much French spoken as Italian. Do buy a leather bag.

The biggest surprise we encountered during our stay in Sanremo was the lovely old quarter of Pigna. An authentic medieval town living alongside the picture book Sanremo of ornate gardens and the Casino

Pigna is a maze of hilly narrow streets on a par with anything you can find in Umbria or Tuscany. It is right in the centre of the city but somehow detached from it and seemingly unadulterated by the effects of 100 years of gentrification.

We advise a stiff walk all the way to the top of the hill for a breathtaking view of the Levante (in the East) and the Ponente (in the west) as well as Sanremo's second and brand new port 'Porto Sole'.

At the summit of the hill is the Church of Madonna della Costa or Our Lady of the Coast. The church has only just been restored and the 18th century frescoes and paintings jump off the walls with the freshest of colors.

Also outstanding are the marble statues by Antonio Maria Marigliano from Genoa which look menacingly down on the congregation.

Before you leave Sanremo dont forget to buy a dozen 'Baci di Sanremo'. These are soft chocolate biscuits. Purchase them from a 'Confetteria' and not prepacked in a souvenir box.