He was the first of a long line of pretenders to the fabulous real estate in this part of Italy. So beautiful, even Venetian nobles eventually left their lagoon home to set up sticks here attracted by its position as a natural crossroads where the Alpine snows meet Mediterranean sun and people came from north and south came to exchange goods.

The old port were see today was rebuilt by the Venetians around 1454 to make Desenzano a commercial hub for the wider area with such localities as Brescia, Mantova and Verona.

Nevertheless, the Venetian style bridge which crosses the entrance was built in the 1930's at the same time as a large wet dock.

Unfortunately, the steamboats have all but disappeared, but do look out for a 'bissa', a type of boat introduced by the Venetians. Similar to a gondola, it has a flat hull and is rowed on foot.

Do visit the Red Cross Museum, the only one in the world and situated just a few kilometres from Desenzano in the town of Castiglione delle Stiviere.

The organisation was set up here by Henri Dunant following the battle of San Martino and Solferino in 1859 when Desenzano became a field hospital during the conflict.

Dont forget that market day is Tuesday.

A look at nearby Sirmione here

Every year from June to August, the 'Compagnie delle Bisse' compete in a regatta with the other towns along the shores of Lake Garda. The first competition took place in 1548 in Salò. The Lega Bisse del Garda www.legabissedelgarda.it

Some places to visit on Lake Garda: Peschiera del Garda, Castelnuovo del Garda, Lazise, Bardolino, Garda, Torri del Benaco, Sirmione, Salò, Limone sul Garda, Riva del Garda