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This year's carnival is something like number 620 and the comune of Putignano in Bari are proud to claim that theirs is one of the oldest and certainly the longest in Italy, if not the world.Experts have pinpointed the date of the first carnival to the 26 December 1394 and, while it finishes as many others do on 'martedì grasso', the celebrations start on this same date with the tradition of 'Propaggine'.
The protagonist of the carnival is 'Farinella' who first appeared on the scene in his current form in only 1953. He wears a green and white suit with a three pointed hat and the obligatory mask, along with bells on the end of his shoes. The colors represent those of the town and refer to a cat and a dog at peace, for at least one part of the year.
'Farinella' was an ancient type of food. A flour made from toasted barley and chick peas which became the base for a tasty sauce of freshly picked figs, and the typical meal for those working in the fields. Do try the recipe for the carnival biscuits of Putignano. Also look out for the 'Sagra del fungo di Bosco di Putingnano' usually on the 3rd weekend of October. The event also includes processions and music.
The rest of the year Putignano is worth perhaps a couple of hours just to see the fascinating old town hidden, almost forgotten, behind the typically dull buildings which now dominate the view from the countryside below. The huge modern, empty and featureless square just off the historical center is just waiting to fill up with colorful carnival floats at least once a year.
Instead, head off on an itinerary taking in the the Murgia hills in the province of Bari, arriving at the cute seaside resorts of Polignano al Mare and Monopoli. On the way do visit Gravina di Puglia, Altamura, Santeramo in Colle, Gioia del Colle, Noci, Putignano, Castellana Grotte and Conversano.
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