The wooded slopes and peaks of the hilly hinterland of the region mean the cuisine of the Ligurian valleys is notable for honey, mushrooms (notably 'porcini'), horse chestnuts and even goat and potatoes.

Yet, it is worth keeping an eye out for a cheese by the name of brusso. Most likely to be found in the area bordering Piemonte, the cheese is almost exclusively home made.

It is produced by mixing various types of seasoned cheeses such as robiole in a terracotta pot. The mixture itself is then flavored with such heart burners as grappa, olive oil, vinegar, salt and hot pepper.

It is then left to ferment before being used as a soft paste, ideally on hot toast or added to steaming polenta. Quite something.

An interesting dish inspired by the fresh products of the interior is pansotti. It is large ravioli and can be filled with vegetables, nut paste and flavored with wild herbs from the hills such as sage.

At Stella on the road between Albissola and Acqui a number of farmers, originally from Sardegna, have based themselves.

They have imported their own recipe for pecorino cheese and the product is one of the rarest of typical products in Italy.

It is available only in a handful of select shops in the immediate area and the curious visitor is better advised to go directly to source.

It is so popular locally that none of the pecorino cheese ever leaves the region.