Inside Umbria

Orvieto

Orvieto is perched on a 300 sq. meter lump of tufa rock between the rivers Paglia and Chiani Urbs Vetus in Umbria and was perhaps the most important of all the Etruscan settlements.

They were certainly there from the 6th century BC and lived quietly until the first Roman incursions 200 years later.

Only the Battle of Sentino in 295 BC brought the situation to an end, but the Etruscans left an immense heritage.

The city bordered the lands of the Umbri and Falisci and was a key trading center. Their society was open and creative and foreigners were always welcome.

Indeed, many often transformed their first name to a family name as they established themselves.

The many tombs built into the rock suggest strong economic, cultural and political advancement throughout the centuries and even the formation of a distinctive middle class known as the 'demos'.

Visitors should head immediately to the main square. The road up the side of the hill continues through the narrow streets and ends right in front of the Cathedral. There is a car park to the right.

The Cathedral was built in 1290 to celebrate the Corpus Domini which took place at Bolsena in 1264.

The impressive facade by Maitani dates from 1330 and still suffers earthquake damage from time to time.

Inside is the fantastic fresco (1499-1504) by Luca Signorelli. It depicts the Apocalypse with the damned being cast into hell.

Another chapel 'San Brizio' houses the 'Universal Justice' by Beato Angelico from the same period.

If you enter any of the good restaurants dont miss out on the truffle pastas, especially in winter.

We picked up a rustic brochure detailing the 'brief story of Orvieto Etrusca' from one restaurant in the historical centre.

It contains real gems of information such as the following:

'The English archaeologist, George Dennis, was acquainted with the different hypotheses concerning its original name, Herbanum, Salpinum, Volsinii. None of these convinced him completely, but he seemed to favor Salpinum, later to be revealed as erroneous'.

White wine of San Gimignano